Ho Chi Minh City, known colloquially as Saigon, is in perpetual flux. From motorbikes whipping across town to late-night café culture and sprawling outdoor music bars, most of the action in this city of nearly 9 million is taking place on the streets. This also applies to its food. Though Saigon’s experimental fine-dining scene is growing—earning its first Michelin Guide last year—even the city’s most decorated chefs concede that street food is the true soul of Vietnamese culture.

Growing up in a Vietnamese immigrant community in Houston, I was exposed to the old-school basics of Saigonese cuisine from an early age. Now, living in Saigon full-time, I’ve rediscovered old favorites and also witnessed the dynamic evolution of modern dishes.

Saigon’s eclectic mix of Chinese, Khmer, French, and American influences is apparent in local dishes like the iconic bánh mì, which repurposes French baguettes with Southeast Asian meats and herbs. It also applies to bò né, the Vietnamese answer to steak and eggs, served on a sizzling skillet. Then there’s noodle soup: while you can get a Saigonese version of Vietnam’s Hanoi-born national dish, phở, Saigon locals are more likely to go for hủ tiếu, a Khmer-influenced pork and seafood noodle soup.

Ready to get started? From savory broken rice to smoky, juicy beef wrapped in aromatic betel leaf and a life-changing coconut coffee, here are the 10 best dishes you absolutely cannot miss in Ho Chi Minh City.

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