Ho Chi Minh City—also called Saigon—never hits pause. For me, it’s Southeast Asia’s version of the city that never sleeps, and at any given hour, you’ll spot locals buying seafood fresh from the Mekong Delta or stocking up on flowers to keep their homes in bloom. In Saigon, life is constantly in motion, and it all kicks off (or winds down) in the markets.

To truly get Saigon, you’ve got to master its markets. Trust me: I’ve been here for four years as a food writer and culinary guide, hosting private tours and experiences with chefs and artisans for food lovers from all over the world. And no matter where I go or eat, I always find myself back in the middle of a market, elbowing through crowds, ordering a Sinh To Bo (avocado smoothie with coconut flakes) next to a bunch of strangers, from a vendor who knows me by heart. There’s nothing more satisfying.

So here’s a rundown of my favorites. And, let’s be real, you’re not leaving without a bag (or five) full of goodies.

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